Sterling Wine Online
8/15/2011

Gastroexploration at Holeman and Finch!

Posted by Le Food Whore |

I like to think that I'm an explorer of sorts. I seek out new tastes, new textures, new foods, and tell my friends and family about them. By no means am I the first, best, or only explorer out there, but the people I know tend towards the conservative and squeamish when it comes to new food, and I like to encourage them to eat things they would shudder at otherwise, admitting also that I sometimes take a perverse delight in their horrified reactions.

Holeman and Finch is a gastropub in Atlanta; very popular, and rather famous, mostly for their 10pm burger rodeo. I heard about H&F from some online friends a while back, and was excited to get the chance to eat there, having heard they featured a "parts" menu. Now I don't know about you, but when I see the word "parts" on a menu, I get giddy.

First up, charcuterie. House-cured meats and cheeses showcase a chef's talent, and this didn't disappoint.The board had three different cured meat options, a daub or two of mustard and some wonderfully crusty bread. They were all wonderful, but my eye and my tastebuds were immediately drawn to the colorful slice of terrine presented alongside the cured meats. Smoked lardons (big chunks of pork fat!) and tender pieces of squid were enveloped in a tasty black squid ink aspic and garnished with candied lemon zest. The taste was that of a succulent pig swimming in the briny depths of the North Atlantic. For those with children, think Wilbur meets Oswald. Truly fantastic.

A luxurious gratin of bone marrow was brought next, again with the same wonderful bread that accompanied the charcuterie. I can't overstate how great this bread was. They make it in their own bakery, and when smeared with that oh-so-good and unctuous bone marrow, it made taste explosions go off in my mouth in a not-quite-totally-non-sexual way. Eating beef bone marrow is like enjoying the very essence of flavor of beef, like a demiglace reduced 10-fold. Intense, glorious, rich. One spoonful scraped from the bone itself contained enough rich, beef flavor to equal a giant bone-in ribeye steak. Now THIS is eating!

A couple of small plates continued my eating extravaganza. One held succulent veal 'fries' with roasted jalapenos, spring onions, and orange slices. For those of you who don't know, 'fries' are a nice word for 'testicles'. It takes balls to eat a dish like this (I've been wanting to use that joke forever!), and it certainly didn't disappoint. Again, the veal fries distilled the very essence and flavor of the veal itself, while offering an almost creamy texture and pleasing firmness. They were sliced and cooked to perfection, and the oranges and jalapenos offered an acidic compliment to cut through the richness of the dish.

The second dish held the best of the best. Candied pork rillons (think bacon on steroids)! Sliced thick from the belly of a pig, these rillions were encased in a thin candy coating and cooked to absolute perfection. As I bit through the slightly sweet, syrupy shell, the warm essence of swine swam sensually over my palate (alliteration, dammit!). There was no trace of greasiness. I was amazed at how well done a fatty slab of pork belly could be. This was absolute hog heaven. I admit that I ordered another plate of them immediately after I devoured the first.

Finally, for 'dessert' (snicker), a deep-fried pork trotter fritter, served with fresh blueberries, summer veggies, and a luscious butter sauce. Again, no trace of greasiness or fattiness could be found, a true credit to the chef(s). Cutting into the fritter revealed a dark, moist meat, still porky, but subtly different than the other offerings I had eaten to that point. The combination of the tart blueberries, tender, fresh squash, and incredible butter sauce made my eyes roll back in my head multiple times.

They had deep-fried chicken heads on the menu, but, uh, I make it a point to rarely (if ever) order chicken out. For more squeamish eaters, they also always offer a bountiful selection of local veggies and more 'normal' entrees. Last, but definitely not least, I shouldn't forget to mention that the bar is stocked with excellent unique cocktails, and one of the best beer and wine lists I've seen. Holeman and Finch surpassed my lofty expectations, and I can't wait to eat there again!

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